Guide
Lighting: what are the different types?
From old-school incandescent to modern LED — a clear guide to aquarium lighting so you can choose what fits your tank and your goals.
- LED: efficient, long-lived, adjustable; the default choice for most tanks.
- Fluorescent (T8/T12): cheap and even; good for fish-only or low-light plants.
- T5 / T5 HO: brighter tubes; good for planted tanks without going high-end LED.
- Match spectrum and intensity to your goal (fish-only vs plants); keep photoperiod to 6–8 hours to limit algae.
Why lighting type matters
Light affects how your tank looks, how well plants grow, and how much algae you get. Fish-only tanks need enough light to see the fish and keep a day/night rhythm; planted tanks need the right spectrum and intensity for photosynthesis. Too much or the wrong type can fuel algae; too little and plants suffer. Understanding the options helps you match the light to the job.
LED (light-emitting diode)
What it is: The standard for most new setups. LEDs are small, efficient, long-lived, and can be tuned for colour (spectrum) and intensity. Many units offer adjustable brightness, sunrise/sunset, or programmable schedules. Pros: Low heat, low power draw, long life, minimal bulb replacement. Cons: Good plant or reef LEDs can be pricey upfront. Best for: Almost everything — fish-only, planted, and reef. Choose “full spectrum” or “plant” LEDs for growing plants; basic white LEDs are fine for fish-only.
Fluorescent (T8, T12)
What it is: Tube lights that were the norm for decades. T8 and T12 refer to tube diameter. Often sold as “daylight” or “plant” tubes. Pros: Inexpensive, even spread, familiar. Cons: Less efficient than LED; bulbs need replacing every 6–12 months; limited intensity for demanding plants. Best for: Fish-only or low-light planted tanks; budget setups.
T5 and T5 HO (high output)
What it is: Thinner, brighter fluorescent tubes. T5 HO puts out more light per tube than T8. Pros: Good for medium-light plants; multiple tubes let you mix spectrum (e.g. one daylight, one plant). Cons: Bulbs need replacing periodically; more heat and power than LED. Best for: Planted tanks where you want strong growth without going full LED; some reef keepers still use T5.
Incandescent
What it is: Old-style screw-in bulbs. Reality: Inefficient, hot, poor spectrum for plants, and mostly obsolete for aquariums. Avoid for new setups.
Spectrum and photoperiod
Plants use red and blue light most; many LEDs are sold as “full spectrum” or “plant” to include these. For algae control, keep the photoperiod to 6–8 hours and avoid direct sunlight. Use a timer so the schedule is consistent — your fish and plants will thank you. If you track tank setup and maintenance in an app like App-aquatic, note your light type and schedule so you can spot patterns (e.g. algae after increasing hours).
Log parameters, scan strips offline, and run stocking checks with App-aquatic.
Get the free appWhy lighting type matters?
Light affects how your tank looks, how well plants grow, and how much algae you get. Fish-only tanks need enough light to see the fish and keep a day/night rhythm; planted tanks need the right spectrum and intensity for photosynthesis. Too much or the wrong type can fuel algae; too little and plants suffer. Understanding the options helps you match the light to the job.
LED (light-emitting diode)?
What it is: The standard for most new setups. LEDs are small, efficient, long-lived, and can be tuned for colour (spectrum) and intensity. Many units offer adjustable brightness, sunrise/sunset, or programmable schedules. Pros: Low heat, low power draw, long life, minimal bulb replacement. Cons: Good plant or reef LEDs can be pricey upfront. Best for: Almost everything — fish-only, planted, and reef. Choose “full spectrum” or “plant” LEDs for growing plants; basic white LEDs
Fluorescent (T8, T12)?
What it is: Tube lights that were the norm for decades. T8 and T12 refer to tube diameter. Often sold as “daylight” or “plant” tubes. Pros: Inexpensive, even spread, familiar. Cons: Less efficient than LED; bulbs need replacing every 6–12 months; limited intensity for demanding plants. Best for: Fish-only or low-light planted tanks; budget setups.
T5 and T5 HO (high output)?
What it is: Thinner, brighter fluorescent tubes. T5 HO puts out more light per tube than T8. Pros: Good for medium-light plants; multiple tubes let you mix spectrum (e.g. one daylight, one plant). Cons: Bulbs need replacing periodically; more heat and power than LED. Best for: Planted tanks where you want strong growth without going full LED; some reef keepers still use T5.
Incandescent?
What it is: Old-style screw-in bulbs. Reality: Inefficient, hot, poor spectrum for plants, and mostly obsolete for aquariums. Avoid for new setups.